DERTBAG’S PHILIP POST TRANSFORMS PAIN INTO BEAUTY
CAFETERIA CHATS WITH DERTBAG DESIGNER ABOUT SOLITUDE, SPIRITUALITY AND MAKING AUTHENTIC ART.
Divine Energy Radiates Through Beauty and Genius, or affectionately known as dertbag, is a living and breathing art project.
Led by designer Philip Post, the Bridgeport-based brand was born out of isolation. Chronic illness — Chron’s and colitis — prevented Post from having a traditional childhood, but he alchemized his experience and used the solitude to become a self-taught clothing designer. While sick at home, Philip created his own fashion school. “Being by myself and designing what I liked really worked in my favor because I didn’t have to deal with external noise.” Post’s hard work and unique vision paid off as he quickly became an indie fashion icon once Kanye West wore dertbag’s designs while recording Pablo. Soon after, Ye hired Philip to work for Yeezy. “It felt like everything that i taught myself from those last ten years led me to that moment.”
Post continues to transmute his energy and experiences to design wearable works of art. Braille finds itself on several dertbag pieces, referencing chronic illness and disability, while creating a universal language. “My life is like an art project and it’s my job to see the signs in terms of what I should pick up on. Anything that I come across, I feel like I am meant to see it and it is my duty to make it into a design. What’s important for me right now is looking back to when I was a kid aspiring to live the life that I'm living now. I can honor my younger self by trying to make clothing for someone just like him.”
Continue scrolling to read Cafeteria’s full interview with dertbag designer Philip Post.
Cafeteria: What inspired you to start dertbag?
Philip Post: I spent a lot of time in my house by myself just trying to stay occupied and creating my own world that I could control. I just wanted a world that I could live in and have something that I could fully focus on creatively. In middle and high school, I taught myself how to run an independent clothing brand. I taught myself how to natural dye and print as well as Photoshop and Illustrator. Being by myself and designing what I liked really worked in my favor because I didn’t have to deal with external noise.
How did the period of isolation and incubation lead you to working with Kanye?
PP: I like to see my life in five year chapters so from the time that I started in 2007 to 2012 were the formative years of me trying to design and create websites and then from 2013 to 2018 was a whole other level up. I opened up the shop in Bridgeport in 2013 and I was selling at Dover Street Market in 2014, where Kanye bought the dertbag hoodie he wore while he was recording Pablo. I sent him more pieces, which turned into me getting a job. It felt like everything that i taught myself from those last ten years led me to that moment.
Do you feel like your designs serve as a way to articulate your life experiences?
PP: Definitely, my designs grow with me. It would be crazy if I kept designing the same stuff. All of the graphics have a deeper meaning as well, whether it just looks cool visually or if it depicts a personal experience that I can’t vocalize, so I’ll find imagery that represents certain things that I’ve gone through. I don’t like going online for references. My inspiration usually comes from daily life or old art books. I’ll scan images that speak to me and manipulate them or collage cut-outs from different eras. It ends up being this mismash of things that i like and that resonate with me, so hopefully it’ll resonate with someone else. My life is like an art project and it’s my job to see the signs in terms of what I should pick up on for inspiration. Anything that I come across, I feel like I am meant to see it and it is my duty to make it into a design.
How does your spiritual practice influence your work?
PP: I definitely think having a spiritual practice helps me figure out the art that I make. Reiki also gave me a set of beliefs to use as a foundation for my designs. It helps set the right intention when making things and the energy being used, whether it’s the colors or the music being played. There are so many parallels between art and energy work. It all comes down to having the right intent and creating from within. I think I create to try and figure out who I am and what I like. I’m fortunate that people like what I create.
Chronic illness and disability is woven into your designs through the inclusion of braille. Can you please expand upon the symbolism of braille as a tactile technology, but also how it relates back to your experiences?
PP: I started using braille in 2011 and that was at a time when everyone was using Arabic or Hebrew for graphics. I wanted to do something different. I feel like braille is so interwoven into the DNA of the brand, when someone sees braille, they think dertbag. Instead of a graphic, sometimes, I'll use braille buttons or create braille with rhinestones on a belt. Subconsciously, I use braille as a way to connect with and represent my own experiences with disability. I use it to spread awareness, but I also just love that it’s a very minimal design, they’re just dots. However, that simplicity is powerful in terms of subtle branding. It’s also a universal language. It’s both cool design wise, but also serves a utilitarian purpose. For me, it’s also about pushing the design language for the brand to the limit as far as it can go. I’m excited to see what else I can do using the braille.
Can you share your future plans for dertbag?
PP: What I'm trying to design right now is a reflection of where I’m at in my life and also reflecting what’s going on in the world. We’re entering a modern Dada period where things don’t make sense and the more they don’t make sense, the more it’s a reflection of how crazy the world is. I feel like I can counter that by making undeniable clothing, but the price point doesn’t hurt your pockets. How can I make sense when everything doesn’t make sense? Being authentic and honest, as well as appeasing the 16 year-old version of me. What’s important for me right now is looking back to when I was a kid aspiring to live the life that I'm living now. I can honor my younger self by trying to make clothing for someone just like him.